Radical Geometry

We Suprematists were disobedient children.
Kazimir Malevich

The fantasized images and contemporary emotions of fashion are often molded out of the art movements which preceded them. Decorative art, paintings, and sculpture abundantly feed a designer’s creative process. Fueled with enthusiasm for Kazimir Malevich’s Suprematist School, Alexis Mabille joins the classroom of disobedient children while sharing recreational time with Calder.
This collection embraces the geometric essence of modernity in order to create a very contemporary vision of femininity. Alexis Mabille enlists cuts, color, fabrics and ilhouettes to bring his current passion to life.
As always, the feminine form is carefully studied and considered - but this time in a new, graphic way. The construction of the clothes follows this new geometric rigor with energy and dynamism: “demi-demi” dresses, shirts, skirts, pants, sweaters and suits are divided in the center with a vertical cut; dresses and tops are cut in the shape of tubes,
squares, rectangles and trapezoids; ponchos are cone-shaped and dresses flare out in undulating folds; the yokes of skirts and pants are cut with a zigzag seam; large half-circles and wide crisscross bands are boldly inset into the designs ; necklines are deep V or boat style; pockets are often square and the tight sleeves are frequently tubed. In addition, there is asymmetrical and dissymmetrical, chess, cross and swallowtail cuts and details throughout the collection.
Dynamic, primary colors are the perfect partners for this distinct geometry. Reds come in poppy or carmine and may slip to fuchsia and lipstick pinks. The blue is cobalt and contrasts with lemon yellow. Graphite grey, black and pure white outline the contrasting colors while enhancing the dramatically sharp shapes and cuts. Carefully chosen fabrics complement this precision while adapting to the curve of the female form. Bold wool cloth, stretched wool jersey, dry winter wool organza, smart Moroccan crepe or shiny Princess crepe, heavy Cassimere silk twill, crisp Duchess silk satin are amongst the textiles privileged to be in this collection.
Alexis Mabille plays with these imperious lines, enhanced by the choices of joyful colors, to keenly accentuate the feminine silhouette; tight bodices served by body-hugging fabrics, elongated or closely fitted styles, coats and dresses in a curvy mermaid line, mini or pencil skirts, slim trousers and jeans, sheer details and generous bows at the neckline or on the lower back, low bare shoulders....
Ever whimsical, the designer daringly uses audacious associations of shapes and colors to idealize the sensuality of women; contrasting colors cut to create a trompe l’oeil pinched wasp waistline, tiny bustiers, short party dresses and dancing skirts, see-through hips, shoulder and busts. An elegant jacket has a trompe l’œil vertical maxi bow outline which unexpectedly reveals the flesh underneath. Two geometric origami roses trim the bust of a daring party dress.
This collection for Fall/Winter 2010-2011, along with the companion lines of accessories, affirm the definitively modern sophistication and sexy spirit that has become Alexis Mabille’s trademark.