eng
Night Butterfly
Paris, February 27, 2013.

Alexis, this winter 2013-2014 collection offers a new vision of the Mabille woman. Could you please elaborate?
Yes, I was inspired by The Hunger by Tony Scott with Catherine Deneuve, Susan Sarandon and David Bowie, one of my cult favorites, although it's not hugely well known. The story, the protagonists, their clothes – everything's totally uninhibited! I decided to approach my collection with that state of mind.

Will today's women recognize themselves in your Amazons?
Of course! Deep down, today everyone's a predator. The Hunger dates from 1983, but the subject matter is totally contemporary. Lady Miriam (Deneuve) gets whatever she desires. I like that idea of a strong woman who's urban and sexy – and dangerous because nothing stops her. She goes for what she wants. Opposite her, there's Sarah (Sarandon), who is younger and vulnerable yet sure of herself, and she too proves herself daring. The complexity of these two characters is very of the moment.

So how does this predatory woman dress?
In Alexis Mabille, of course! Restrained yet decadent, she mixes extreme femininity with a masculine vibe. She's a working girl in a double-breasted jacket-dress, trousers and a man's shirt. She is also ferocious in multicolored leopard. And her silhouette is completely sensual in a body-hugging dress or miniskirt.

Please tell us about the importance of cut in this collection.
Like every season, I worked with volume and the clothes' movement but this time my approach was more rigorous. I really focused on cuts and cut-outs that would make a woman look her best.

In a way, it sounds like you are breaking your own codes.
Yes and no. I use graphic lines in all of my collections, but this winter they are more carnal. Tops are slit or have zips to show a little skin, coats and skirts have geometric shapes, and two-tone dresses underscore curves. Velvet lightens up with leopard motifs, jersey molds the body, knits are lacquered or studded with jewelry, and I used coated crêpe to pick up and play with light. The colors are both refined and dynamic: nude, blood red, petrol blue, gold, etc. And my signature is still there, in butterfly sleeves, a marked waist, bows draped over a neckline, and layering.

So how do you define the Mabille woman?
She's fascinating and enigmatic, singular and mysterious – she has lots of different facets! What distinguishes her is character – she is ageless.
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LOOK #1
Nude blouse in triacetate with jeweled collar and pleated sleeves.
Worn under an openwork sweater with black pompoms.
Wide men's trousers in black crêpe.
 
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LOOK #2
Two-tone coat in gray and baby camello flannel with screw-head buttons.
White poplin shirt with jeweled collar and pleated sleeves.
Gray flannel trousers with drawstring waist and appliquéd pockets.
 
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LOOK #3
Black crêpe overalls cinched with a black and red belt.
Worn over a nude blouse in triacetate with jeweled collar and pleated sleeves.
 
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LOOK #4
Unzippable jacket-dress in gray jersey, with screw-head buttons.
Zipped top in leopard jersey. Lacquered black wool trousers.
 
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LOOK #5
Jeweled cardigan in heathered wool.
Sleeveless T-shirt with shawl collar in shiny heathered jersey.
Egyptian-inspired wrap miniskirt in gray flannel.
 
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LOOK #6
White poplin shirt with jeweled collar and pleated sleeves. Asymmetrical little zippered jacket with removable sleeves, in heathered gray wool with leopard trim. Gray flannel trousers with drawstring waist, yellow belt and appliquéd pockets in beige suede.
 
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LOOK #7
Dress with high collar and butterfly sleeves, in gray wool jersey with zip front.
 
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LOOK #8
Chunky gray metallic cable knit sweater.
White cotton poplin shirt with jeweled collar.
Men's trousers in gray wool gabardine.
 
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LOOK #9
White poplin shirt with micro-pleating.
Top in leopard dévoré velvet on petrol blue chiffon.
Egyptian-inspired miniskirt in aquamarine lamé.
 
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LOOK #10
Top with front slit and butterfly sleeves, in leopard dévoré velvet on petrol blue chiffon.
Egyptian-inspired miniskirt in verdigris flannel.
 
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LOOK #11
Reversible coat with butterfly sleeves in chunky metallic blue and heathered gray cable knit.
Black jersey zip-up top
Black leather trousers.
 
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LOOK #12
Jacket with ribbon collar, in gray, blue and ebony crêpe.
Slim trousers in ebony stretch gabardine with zip closure, leather appliqué and pink metal beading.
 
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LOOK #13
Little zippered jacket in ebony gabardine and front trimmed in black guipure lace.
Top with shawl collar in red leopard devoré velvet.
Slim black trousers in black crêpe with zip closure, suede appliqués and gunmetal beading.
 
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LOOK #14
Asymmetrical zippered pea coat in black wool gabardine with screw-head buttons and martingale detail in back.
Black crêpe trousers with drawstring waist and zip pockets.
 
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LOOK #15
Jacket-dress in black wool canvas with zip closure.
Worn over a black knit dress with gathered gimp in black point d'esprit and a satin bow.
 
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LOOK #16
Four-color crêpe dress with ogival neckline and geometric cutouts; in black, blood red, nude and blue crêpe.
 
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LOOK #17
White poplin blouse with butterfly sleeves.
Worn over a petrol blue knit top with gathered gimp in black point d'esprit and a satin bow.
Brocade trousers in multicolored leopard velvet with drawstring waist.
 
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LOOK #18
Nude top in triacetate with butterfly sleeves, zip closure.
Miniskirt in multicolored leopard velvet brocade with drawstring waist.
 
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LOOK #19
Black wool coat with Mongolian appliqués, cinched with midnight blue belt.
Zip-up top in petrol blue piqué jersey.
Men's trousers in multicolored leopard velvet brocade.
 
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LOOK #20
Black knit top with knit pompoms at the neck.
Worn under a red leopard dévoré velvet with black Mongolian trim.
Smoky black ribbed miniskirt.
 
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LOOK #21
Black knit dress with pompoms at the neck.
Worn with a raglan knit coat with black pompoms.
 
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LOOK #22
Layered "double-top" dress in blood red crêpe and red leopard dévoré velvet.
 
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LOOK #23
Large coat with butterfly sleeves, in black velvet painted with white geometric lines.
Black crêpe dress with high collar, butterfly sleeves and front slit.
 
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LOOK #24
Jeweled dress in blood red knit and black stones, cinched with a black belt.
 
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LOOK #25
T-shirt in black jersey with beaded feather motif short sleeves.
Miniskirt with drawstring waist and zippered pockets, in black crêpe.
 
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LOOK #26
Dress with high neck, butterfly sleeves and front slit, in black velvet painted with white geometric lines.
 
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LOOK #27
White silk crepe blouse with butterfly sleeves.
Black crêpe harem pants.
 
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LOOK #28
Body-hugging dress in two kinds of black jersey, plunging neckline with beaded feather motif and ribbon tie.
 
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LOOK #29
Black triacetate dress with black organza cape-effect top.
 
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LOOK #30
Black "double-top" blouse in crêpe and leopard dévoré velvet.
Wide men's trousers in black crêpe.
 
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LOOK #31
Little black bustier dress in jersey and sparkly velvet with organza martingale detail in back.
Worn with a black on black jeweled cardigan.
 
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LOOK #32
Gold suit in coated crêpe: men's edged jacket and trousers with drawstring waist, black belt and zip pockets.
Black latticed shirt with silk taffeta front.
 
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LOOK #33
Two-tone earth and ebony crêpe dress with drawstring waist, appliquéd trim, jet beads and black knit pompoms.
 
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LOOK #34
Men's tailcoat in black gabardine with leather lapel and buttons.
Little bustier in coated crêpe with geometric cutouts and leopard sequin embroidery.
Miniskirt with black pompoms and nude lining.
 
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LOOK #35
Body-hugging dress with geometric cutouts, in leopard sequin embroidery.
 
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LOOK #36
Nude blouse in triacetate with front and cuffs in gold coated crêpe.
Long Egyptian-inspired sheath in gold-coated crêpe.
 
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LOOK #37
Black and nude "cape-top" in triacetate.
Nude men's trousers also in triacetate.
 
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LOOK #38
Little cape-dress in blood red and black crêpe with two-tone cutouts.
 
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LOOK #39
Long bustier dress in blood red and black crêpe and lamé.
Worn with a long black knit coat with pompoms.
 
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LOOK #40
Blue mini-dress in crêpe with latticed front and long cape.
 
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LOOK #41
Long evening sheath in black crêpe with long sleeves, latticed gold and triangle cutout at the bust.
 
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LOOK #42
Long evening sheath in gold crêpe and black velvet painted with geometric gold lines, long sleeves and martingale detail in back.
 
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LOOK #43
Long asymmetrical dress in black silk velvet painted with geometric white lines.
 
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LOOK #44
Long dress with geometric cutouts in antiqued silver and gold coated crêpe, latticed black panel.