Paris, February 27, 2013.
Alexis, this winter 2013-2014 collection offers a new vision of the Mabille woman. Could you please elaborate?
Yes, I was inspired by The Hunger by Tony Scott with Catherine Deneuve, Susan Sarandon and David Bowie, one of my cult favorites, although it's not hugely well known. The story, the protagonists, their clothes – everything's totally uninhibited! I decided to approach my collection with that state of mind.
Will today's women recognize themselves in your Amazons?
Of course! Deep down, today everyone's a predator. The Hunger dates from 1983, but the subject matter is totally contemporary. Lady Miriam (Deneuve) gets whatever she desires. I like that idea of a strong woman who's urban and sexy – and dangerous because nothing stops her. She goes for what she wants. Opposite her, there's Sarah (Sarandon), who is younger and vulnerable yet sure of herself, and she too proves herself daring. The complexity of these two characters is very of the moment.
So how does this predatory woman dress?
In Alexis Mabille, of course! Restrained yet decadent, she mixes extreme femininity with a masculine vibe. She's a working girl in a double-breasted jacket-dress, trousers and a man's shirt. She is also ferocious in multicolored leopard. And her silhouette is completely sensual in a body-hugging dress or miniskirt.
Please tell us about the importance of cut in this collection.
Like every season, I worked with volume and the clothes' movement but this time my approach was more rigorous. I really focused on cuts and cut-outs that would make a woman look her best.
In a way, it sounds like you are breaking your own codes.
Yes and no. I use graphic lines in all of my collections, but this winter they are more carnal. Tops are slit or have zips to show a little skin, coats and skirts have geometric shapes, and two-tone dresses underscore curves. Velvet lightens up with leopard motifs, jersey molds the body, knits are lacquered or studded with jewelry, and I used coated crêpe to pick up and play with light. The colors are both refined and dynamic: nude, blood red, petrol blue, gold, etc. And my signature is still there, in butterfly sleeves, a marked waist, bows draped over a neckline, and layering.
So how do you define the Mabille woman?
She's fascinating and enigmatic, singular and mysterious – she has lots of different facets! What distinguishes her is character – she is ageless.